Tuesday, October 30, 2012

Oaxaca (part 1) - Oct 30

Arrived today in Oaxaca (pronounced Wa-ha-ca) .. Jwo, myself and Dave (an English guy who was staying at the hostel in Puerto), caught a minivan service early this morning .. the minivan is much cheaper and quicker than the bigger coaches because it takes the shorter, apparently less windy road through the mountains.

Trip pretty much took the whole day .. had some interesting travel companions .. three live chickens in a bag, a mother breast feeding her baby, and a man with some curious facial tattoos (including a tear underneath one eye .. which according to the urban dicionary means he has killed someone).

You see plenty of random shops in Mexico .. you can be out in a small rural village and you see a store that sells just tiles and toilet seats .. or you may be passing down the highway and someone is selling a bunch of beds. Which reminds me .. most people seem to be doing something here .. there is not that much lounging around (which is what I have seen a lot of in countries like Egypt and Morocco).

Puerto Escondido (part 5) - Oct 29

Had to settle for a swim today, as there was no surf at all .. flat like a pancake .. didn´t mind too much though.

Settling in to the hostel now .. quite enjoy staying here (Osa Maraposa), in my wooden shack .. well I think it is best described as a very fancy wooden tent. The owner is an american guy from Colorado .. covered in tattoos he left the US about 7 years ago on a bit of a walkabout "with a broken heart", and somehow he has ended up here. Think he might be a buddhist .. he had a small book he wrote at the hostel about his first steps south of America. Anyway the food was vegetarian but strangely delicious.

So far the people seem very fair .. they don´t rip you off at all .. not like my experiences in places like Morocco where they are out to fleece you for every buck you have. There also doesn´t appear to be a haggling culture .. there is a bit of movement when it comes to accommodation but for the most part the price is the price (which is kinda refreshing)

Puerto Escondido (part 4) - Oct 28

Had a surf yesterday .. managed to get one wave .. haha .. yes one .. was very small again. Had a 7" 2' board .. Jwo had a ridiculously small fish .. I had a try on his board but no chance in this small swell and with my size. 

Bugs are really taken to another level in this country .. have seen some cockroaches (cucarachas), here that would make Australia's biggest cry .. literally twice the size of the typical household cockroach. Have been sleeping under a mosquito net but I dont think the mozzies are that bad here. 

Played cards with the Wo and an English and Swiss guy last night .. played many games of "shit head", the games got progressively more rowdy, the peak being when Jwo was down to his jocks (the game was played in the dining/bar area of the hostel so the aim was to embarass the loser), had to do 30 push ups and buy a shot of mezcal .. Speaking of mezcal .. delicious, but deadly stuff .. soo strong. 

That night we went to a party two blocks down the road .. under a thatched roof while a storm crackled in the distance .. lots of other travellers there .. some weird dodgy locals too .. have become a slightly more hardened traveller. 

Sunday, October 28, 2012

Puerto Escondido (part 3) - Oct 27

Went for a surf yesterday at a sheltered beach here, beautiful surroundings .. cliffs, palms .. however the waves werent so beautiful, the only people getting on anything were the people taking lessons who were getting pushed on their longboards onto the waves.

Walked back to the hostel from the break, very long and hot .. I did break it up with a cold coconut (am kinda addicted to these), and some time reading the kindle under an umbrella. My skin is taking a bit of a beating here .. largely because I am out and about in the middle of the day, will try and limit this for the duration of the trip.

Food has been much better here, have had some good meals .. even the food at the hostel is decent .. one of the guys who works there is vegetarian so all the food is too.

It seems every man and his dog is going to Oaxaca for Day Of The Dead (in that every traveller I talk to appears to be), will need to have a look into booking a seat on a bus or we might not get there in time!

Saturday, October 27, 2012

Puerto Escondido (part 2) - Oct 26

So we are in Puerto Escondido .. the home of Mexican Pipeline (one of the world´s most famous big wave spots), so maybe it shouldnt come as too much of a surprise that it is quite difficult to find a more mellow wave more suitable to my and the Wo´s abilities. It was this fact and the realisation there are no good mellow waves nearby that caused us to be feeling a bit down about the place. 

It is however by far the most touristy place we have yet been, there are lots of gringos all over the beach. (I was starting to think no-one really came to Mexico), at night it does have a bit of a dodgy vibe (the girl staying at our hostel had her iphone taken by a threating knife weilding hombre), but during the day it seems ok. 

The hostel we are staying in is more like a bunch of shacks, spent my first night ever sleeping under a mosquito net .. and had a surprisingly good sleep.  

Friday, October 26, 2012

Puerto Escondido (part 1) - Oct 25

Caught the bus from Acapulco today .. we were a bit slow to get going this morning, and got a cab to the bus station (a small vw beetle), the driver asked if I was Canadian, but was very surprised to find out Jwo was Australian.

Once on the bus it was a very long and slow ordeal .. took up the whole day, however the scenery was quite pretty, it reminded me of what I imagine Sri Lanka looks like .. lots of coconut palms with thick jungle and flat lands, with winding streams and small lakes. We arrived in Puerto Escondido (Hidden Port) after sunset, so we just checked into the nearest hotel we could find.

During the trip we were stopped a number of times by the millitary .. also there were all sorts of people jumping on the bus to sell things (quesadillas, chewing gum, water), we even had a partially blind busker sing a few songs accompanied by his guitar.

Acapulco - Oct 24

We made our way from the surprisingly flash bus station at Mexico City towards the faded charms of Acapulco .. I had an extremely nervous moment when I left my day pack on the floor out the front of the sandwich shop (I ordered us 3 extremely delicious chapatas - rolls), after about 4 minutes I realised, turned around and ran through the crowd and found it had been put aside by the staff .. was surprised and very relieved (my passport was in that daypack)!

Acapulco feels like it has seen better days .. it was quite the cool spot back in the day with John and Jackie Kennedy going there for their honeymoon .. however it feels kinda dirty and a bit neglected these days.

Went and watched the "famous" cliff divers which was impressive .. they jump from quite high up doing flips, there is no room for error, it feels like if they stuff up they are really going to hurt themselves.

That night we stayed in a very basic hotel .. had my best sleep yet though, as it wasnt too hot or noisy.

Wednesday, October 24, 2012

Mexico City (part 3) - Oct 23

Was a very cultural day today .. went and checked out some of Diego Rivera´s murals, which were conveniently next door to the hostel. I quite liked them .. they reminded me a lot of Reg Mombasa´s art work with Mambo .. I am guessing he was highly influenced by Diego.

Then it was off to see some work from Diego´s wife - Frida Kahlo. She sounds like she had a really hard life and her paintings are quite tortured and surreal. The area of town the house was in had lots of leafy streets and hip restaurants and cafes .. really relaxing and quiet, but I guess you could have been anywhere.

To cap it off we headed to the Lucha Libre (Mexican Wrestling), which was very surreal and fun .. we even got to meet ´Delta´ one of the stars of the show. The crowd were getting into it .. one woman sitting in front of us was yelling all sorts of abuse, which the surrounding mexican crowd thought was hilarious .. too quick for me to translate but I heard her say something about grandparents at one point.

Most of them wear masks but apparently to be de-masked is a bit of an event .. there was one unmasking but the guy covered his face the whole time so I guess he got away with it. Then to walk off the stage one of the managers gave him his coat to cover his face.

The Wo and I getting attacked by "Delta"
And yes .. there was one midget wrestler .. I saw him to some kicking to a guy on the ground but for he mostly played a small part in proceedings (pun intended).

Monday, October 22, 2012

Mexico City (part 2) - Oct 22

On the shore lay Montezuma, with his coca leaves and pearls. In his halls he often wondered, with the secrets of the worlds. - Cortez the killer, Neil Young. 
 Well the Wo arrived today, well very early this morning to be precise .. I was going to ask at the front desk for him to be put into my room but then I figured it would most likely get lost in translation, and plus who wants someone bumbling into your dorm room at 1 in the morning. Anyway he sorted it himself and yes woke me up at around 2 in the morning.

Today after a social breakfast of strange cornflake-esque cereal and pancakes we made our way out to the pyramids of Teotihuacan (where I believe Montezuma hung out for a period of time). To get there we had to navigate the surprisingly civilised metro and then catch a bus. Got a bit more of an idea of the urban sprawl today .. it really is spread out .. lots of plain block shaped houses, built up and down the rolling hills .. nothing flash but not as rough as what I expected to see.

One unusual site I saw on the way was a group of a few hundred guys dancing around in their underpants, I imagine it was a protest of some sort .. glad it wasnt me out there, I got burnt just from my time wandering around the pyramids and I was wearing shorts, tshirt and a hat!

Men in underpants - a Bonds sponsored flash mob?
Climbed up the pyramid, pretty steep and quite a large site .. didnt get that much information on it .. read a bit in the lonely planet but it didnt tell a great deal. Apparently they are not solid stone but actually piled up dirt.

Pyramid of the sun .. maybe that is why i got so burnt .. should have shown more respect!

Not sure I realise how close to the edge I am here ..
Have seen quite a bit of PDA here (public displays of affection), and not just amongst randy teenagers, but also from those heading more towards middle age .. with some full on make out sessions from people just waiting to cross the street.

Sunday, October 21, 2012

Mexico City (part 1) - Oct 21

Was soo much cooler in the night last night, however I lay awake for about an hour and half because of a mosquito in the dorm, which kept dive bombing my ear. Also it didnt help when the light got turned on at various points in the early morning .. aah the joys of hostels.

After much difficulty I eventually managed to find the correct collectivo (mini bus), to take me to the Bus Station (they have a number of routes around town .. with all rides costing 6 pesos .. but no map to speak of), where I jumped on the first primera clase bus to Mexico City.

Must admit I was pretty nervous about heading here on my own .. it is a seriously big megapolis (around 22 million), but I managed to navigate out the bus station and onto the metro and within an hour was at the hostel.

City feels much more European than I imagined .. and a lot safer than I thought it would .. mind you I get the feeling you wouldnt want to take a wrong turn late at night.

Have seen some interesting sights already .. when I was wandering around I saw what appeared to be a mock exorcism .. complete with a man writhing on the floor in pain.

It seems the hostel offer tours to the Mexican Wrestling .. so I am very much looking forward to that on Tuesday .. plus the Wo* turns up tonight.

* not his real name - but an alias to protect his real identity. 

Saturday, October 20, 2012

Morelia - Oct 20

Quite a strange birthday today .. got up around quarter past 7, had a yakult (they are cheap here), then breakfast, packed my bags and begun walking in the heat. By the time I reached the bus station I was covered in sweat .. I noticed that when I put my arms on the counter to purchase my ticket it left a small puddle.

I didn´t even know such thing as a "first class" bus exists, but anyway in Mexico they do .. rather roomy seats, little hadouts (a bottle of water and some snacks), as well as in-bus entertainment. I put on some english language music and watched the countryside pass by.

At one point we stopped at a military checkpoint .. after which soldiers walked onto the bus and people started getting off. I then realised they wanted to see our "maletas" or bags. I went downstairs and had to put my backpack through some sort of scanning machine like you see at the airport, then I said gracias and got back on the bus.

I am now in Morelia, staying in the historic centre .. the architecture is very colonial (feels like I am on the Iberian Peninsula).
The Cathedral in Morelia
First thing I noticed here is that it is a fair bit cooler, might even be able to sleep all the way through tonight .. and under a sheet!

Oh by the way I need to make a comment about the food .. meals have been very hit and miss so far, have had some tasty things .. but have also had some truly dire meals (the type of thing where you have to scrunch up your nose and just keep eating).

Friday, October 19, 2012

La Saladita (part 9) - Oct 19

Well my last day surfing La Saladita today .. caught the most waves yet in a session but again I had a weird incident where my board nearly knocked someone out .. bit of a worry really .. guess I am not used to the big things, tried to duckdive a breaking wave and it sucked me back into the wave and I somehow ended up flying head first along the wave and right out the top of someone .. not cool .. need to do something about this.
Darren and I at La Saladita
Quite a few older guys out in the lineup each day .. usually the same people everyday .. one of the older guys who stands out is a guy everyone calls Corky .. he gave us a lift back to the bus stop today with his much younger mexican wife .. anyway here is what wikipedia says about him.
Corky Carroll (born September 29, 1947) was a professional American surfer and is considered a pioneer in the sport by becoming the first real professional surfer as well as being the first to receive endorsements.
One of the unusual things about Corky, asides from the fact he was three times world champion .. is that he has these two large growths on each side of his top abs. It was not confined just to him .. I saw it on a couple of other older guys, something to do with paddling out everyday for the last 50 years.

One of the vistas from out the bus window
Checked out the bus times to Morelia .. so tomorrow I will be packing my bags and making my way there. 

Thursday, October 18, 2012

La Saladita (part 7 and 8) - Oct 17/18

He came dancing across the water, with his galleons and guns, looking for the new world, in that palace in the sun. - Cortez the killer, Neil Young.
Fascinating reading about the history of Mexico, I find you learn so much about the world from travelling .. was chatting to a Ukrainean guy last night as I cooked my dinner at the hostel, and he said 'you know a lot about European history' I said I know a bit about the places I have been.

Internet wasn't working yesterday, so didn't get to update the blog .. so here is two days for the price of one. Yesterday got some good waves, had one ride that must of been close to 30 seconds long. It had rained the night before and the water was pretty funky .. quite brown .. must of scared a few people off cause there wasn't many in the water. Whereas today was flat but yet I counted 27 people in the line up.

The view out the back of a pickup that gave us a lift from Los Llanos to the beach at La Saladita
Have downloaded a spanish teaching book to my Kindle and have been doing a little bit each day. Can read and write pretty well .. but find when it is spoken to me it is so fast I can't process it in time to respond coherently.

The local buses that we've been catching many of them are done up with personality. Almost like themes .. I have seen a Batman bus and also a Freddy Kruger bus. Another thing that entertains me to no end is the very Mexican sounding music that blares out of everysingle bus stereo.

Tuesday, October 16, 2012

La Saladita (part 6) - Oct 16

¡Yes it is true they do have gingers in Mexico! They are called albinos .. must be quite a common thing .. or maybe they just stand out because everyone else has dark hair and brown eyes.

Back onto the bigger board today, got one super long ride but was an average session in all .. due in large part to the large number of (good), surfers in the water.

Saw a woodpecker today, and a huge butterfly .. it´s wingspan would be the distance from the tip of your index finger to the bottom of your palm.

My stomach is starting to give me a bit of grief .. montezuma´s revenge it aint quite yet .. so far montezuma´s angry stare.

Monday, October 15, 2012

La Saladita (part 5) - Oct 15

Not a good surf session today .. really struggled, it was pretty busy and I tried out a shorter board. To make it even worse I kinda dropped in on a guy .. and my board nearly speared him in the head (it didn´t), but loads of people saw it, don´t wanna be known as ´that´ guy.

No lift today either (came back on the bus) starting to think those first few days were a fluke. On the plus side I saw a hummingbird (too quick for me to take a photo), they are called ´chuparosa´ in spanish.

Every month is Movember in Mexico .. moustaches are all the rage here.

Sunday, October 14, 2012

La Saladita (part 4) - Oct 14


Last night I decided to brave the market, didn´t know the words for everything but still managed to cook myself up a beef stirfry with rice. 

Best surf of the trip so far today .. so good I left my rash vest behind at (Llordes) the board place .. rang her via a very confusing public telephone to ask if she could put it aside .. hope nothing got lost in translation.

Struggled with hitchs today .. ended up walking half way back up the track before waiting in the shade for a ride, got in the back of a ute full of empty water bottles. He drove us to the town .. a nice cold coconut helped ease the pain as we waited for the bus.

Here is the very popular Chinese takeaway in town

Saturday, October 13, 2012

La Saladita (part 3) - Oct 13

Have seen loads of turtles swimming around out in the surf, everynow and then one pops it head out for a breather. Walking back from the beach there are lizards and butterflies galore. Saw a bigger lizard today .. he is kinda camoflaged but he is in there.


Got a lift all the way back to Zihua after the surf .. wow .. that´s three successful hitchhikes in a row. Was a really nice american couple (from Durango Colorado), who picked us up, they said they weren´t the regular gringos staying in luxury .. they described their place in the village as a concrete tent. They spend half their year in Mexico and the other half back home (snowboarding) .. not a bad way to live!

There is a chinese takeaway (if that is what you call a hole in the wall joint) in Zihua literally a stones throw from the hostel .. and it always seems to have a queue .. have been there a couple of times already. You can get a small meal for 35 pesos.

Friday, October 12, 2012

La Saladita (part 2) - Oct 12

Bit more into the swing of things this morning .. Darren and I caught the 730 bus again .. did much better out on the board .. got one fairly decent ride .. it even earnt me a compliment from a pretty girl .. sun so far doesn't seem to have the same sting as Bali.

Caught a lift back into town with a mexican guy in a very nice 4x4 .. he had the traditional music blaring all the way.

Here is the hostel in Zihuatanejo (or Zihua as the cool kids call it) I am staying in.

Decided I am going to stay here a week more (which enabled me to negotiate down the price), before I make my way to Mexico City to meet the Wo.

Thursday, October 11, 2012

La Saladita - Oct 11

Yesterday I was trying to work out how I could get myself to Troncones, a taxi seemed that bit too much (330 peso) .. however there was a bus but it seemed complicated .. by the time I had worked out some semblance of a plan it was early afternoon and I decided it best to head off early the next morning.

As I wandered back up the stairs to my hostel I met an American guy "you look like you are heading off somewhere", I explain to him I wanted to go to Troncones but thought I would try again the next day. "Oh it´s easy man, I go pass there on the bus everyday on my way to Saladita".

So this morning I got up early and caught the bus with Darren to La Saladita. The bus can be hailed down at any point and stopped anywhere. They are obviously not designed for anyone over 6 foot but the seat next to me was free and the driver had the tunes cranking.

23 pesos and over an hour later we were at Las Llanos .. from the road to the beach is about 3km .. but we hitched a lift with an elderly american guy after about 500m.

I rented a longboard (it´s very much a longboard wave), and hit the warm water .. a long paddle and the waves were clean, people were friendly .. struggled a bit .. but it felt good to be in the water.



Afterwards we hitched a ride with "Johnny Be Good" (a mexican guy i saw out in the lineup), back to Zihuatanejo.

Wednesday, October 10, 2012

Zihuatanejo - Oct 10

Let me add HOT to those list of impressions .. also not many gringos around .. spoke to an American guy at breakfast this morning and he said it is low season, there only seemed to be one other tourist at my hostel last night (and only saw him briefly when I asked him a good place to eat dinner).

I had a dormitory room to myself last night .. so I had the fan positioned on my feet and on flat out the whole night .. didn´t sleep super well .. woke up a stack of times .. at one point the market next door got it´s deliveries by truck and geez it was loud .. so much so I sacrificed what little air I was getting from outside to shut the sliding door.

Tuesday, October 9, 2012

Mexico first impressions - Oct 9

I arrived in Mexico today .. here are my first impressions;


- Modern airport
- Friendly people
- Reminds me a lot of Bali

LA (transit) - Oct 8

Flew from JFK to LAX .. spent the night in a motel conveniently located close to the airpot .. in otherwords so close that you feel like a 747 is going to land on your head .. not sure if i was just super tired or if the planes had a curfew cause I didn´t notice them too much. Didn´t sleep well though .. kept waking up, feel a bit nervous re: Mexico. 

New York (part 3 Manhatten) - Oct 5 -> Oct 8

My final 3 days in New York were spent in Manhatten in Flemmo and Hester´s very impressive rental apartment on the 27th floor in Tribeca .. the views were fantastic .. and it was bathed in an adundence of natural light .. it truly is an amazing space.

I met up with Hester and Flem on the Friday .. feeling exhausted, but somehow managed to get to bed at an reasonable(ish) time in preparation for 8am kick off at the Madhatter.

The Madhatter is the Manchester City pub in New York so there we were with a few other die hard fans drinking Guiness and watching City beat Sunderland quite convincingly. After a overhyped burger we headed back home and both slept all afternoon. That evening we had a great meal at ´Inoteca in the East Village and then topped it off with a three hour karoke session.


On Sunday Flem, Hester, Mick, Becky, Miriam and myself met up for a West Indian brunch .. the highlight was the corn and the saucy record sleeves on the walls. We then wandered around a rainy (London-esque) Manhatten via Eataly, that night I helped Hester cook dinner.

Speaking of food .. why is the food so good in New York!? Honestly it is AMAZING!!

Here is the view from the top of their apartment. Looking towards the Freedom Tower.


Monday - I started the day with a two stroke win at Mini Golf, Mamofuku for ramen lunch, then wandered back to the apartment where I packed up my bags took a deep breath and headed towards the airport .. The Adventure starts here. 

New York (part 2 Brooklyn) - Oct 2 -> Oct 5

Absolutely loved the brownstone buildings and leafy chilled vibe of Park Slope .. or as Mick tells me due to it´s lack of car spaces "No Park Slope". Mick and Becky´s apartment was downstairs from the street.

I spent 4 nights staying on the fold out couch, as they have a young baby (Miriam 9 months), and also both work they were always up early. Was fascinating spending time with the very cute Miriam .. I haven´t really had any experience with babies of this age (usually meet babies when they are just born and then again once they are running around .. but not inbetween).


Mick took the day off one day, he hired a car and some mountain bikes and drove north out of the city where the highrise sprawl is replaced with hills and trees, we rode around on some trails .. after the Timbo incident I was quite wary of pushing myself too hard. Was a really beautiful part of the world.

That night we had Indian in Queens .. just happened to be at the same time as the first Presidential Debate .. in the street they had set up a projector screen and there was 100+ people standing around watching.

Other activities I got up to were - Kats Deli, Riding around Prospect Park, The High Line, Frankies.

Friday, October 5, 2012

New York (part 1 Brooklyn) - Oct 1

After a restless night I awoke early packed the last couple of things into my shipping boxes, said goodbye to Anne (my German housemate), my flat and the country that has been home for the last 6+ years. I put my backpack on and headed out into the London drizzle towards Gatwick. As it was early morning I wasn't feeling anything emotionally .. was just thinking "I gotta catch my plane".

Unfortunately my flight was not direct, hence I flew a couple of hours to Madrid - killed a few hours in the rather drab airport (did get to practice some spanish though), and then jumped on my next flight to New York. When I sat into my cramped seat I was quite shocked when they mentioned it would be over 8 hours til landing in JFK .. this is the point where I was trying to recall just how much cheaper this flight was than a more direct route.

8 hours later I was greeted with a one hour queue through customs, then I slowly made my way to Mick and Becky´s Park Slope (Brooklyn), pad via Airtrain, Long Island Railway, bus and foot .. finally arriving at their front door around half past midnight.