Well my last day surfing La Saladita today .. caught the most waves yet in a session but again I had a weird incident where my board nearly knocked someone out .. bit of a worry really .. guess I am not used to the big things, tried to duckdive a breaking wave and it sucked me back into the wave and I somehow ended up flying head first along the wave and right out the top of someone .. not cool .. need to do something about this.
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Darren and I at La Saladita |
Quite a few older guys out in the lineup each day .. usually the same people everyday .. one of the older guys who stands out is a guy everyone calls Corky .. he gave us a lift back to the bus stop today with his much younger mexican wife .. anyway here is what wikipedia says about him.
Corky Carroll (born September 29, 1947) was a professional American surfer and is considered a pioneer in the sport by becoming the first real professional surfer as well as being the first to receive endorsements.
One of the unusual things about Corky, asides from the fact he was three times world champion .. is that he has these two large growths on each side of his top abs. It was not confined just to him .. I saw it on a couple of other older guys, something to do with paddling out everyday for the last 50 years.
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One of the vistas from out the bus window |
Checked out the bus times to Morelia .. so tomorrow I will be packing my bags and making my way there.
Nice you getting the chance to hang out with some other older people ;)
ReplyDeleteBest way to make you feel young!
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